The New Beetle-RS 
(Roadster Sport)
Original Kit: Revell Snap 7106
Date Started: 03 June 2004
.Date Finished: 21 August 2004
Page  4  of 6

August 01, 2004:

For the battery, I needed a 3V supply to drive the LEDs. I found a flat watch battery that went into the spare wheel area. What a nice fit! 

I prepared the housing (+) for the battery from 0.5 mm thick galvanized steel sheet and to maintain good contact, I applied a layer of solder on the inside. Then I soldered the main (+) wire to the bottom and fixed the housing with epoxy glue.
To continue with the rest of the boot inside, I had to fix the rear "axle". I adjusted the ride height with styrene blocks and fixed the axle with epoxy glue. 
I prepared the boot bottom panel and battery access lid from styrene sheet.
I bent a copper wire and fixed it as shown on the underside of the lid.
I covered the whole with Duck tape to serve as a hinge as well. A tiny screw holds the lid pressed on the battery.
Now to the boot hinges. I glued the hinge and the styrene tubings to their places. The boot lid can be taken off anytime.
 To adjust the front axle ride height, I hand-machined M3 screw threading to the "kingpins". After adjusting with nuts, I fixed the nuts with CA glue.
I made a general assembly to check if everything was going alright. Well, I was pleased to see it so!

For the front grille, I cut an aluminium piece and bent to suit the curvature. This aluminium piece comes from a tape recorder that I had, dating from 1974! I haven't thrown this metal part away, and after 30 years, I am making use of it... And still I have some more material left for the future!
I carved out the front licence plate space in the front bumper and also the space for the front grille. I glued a piece of styrene in the bumper.
I cut out a styrene part to define the lower edge of the front grille and glued it in place.
August 05, 2004:

I drilled two openings for installing two microswitches for the head/rear lamps and hazard lamps circuits. I did not want to complicate the system with an extra division for right/left turn signals.

Here the holes are seen from the bottom. They are hidden behind and between pulley/belt imitations.
I fixed the microswitches with hot melt glue gun.
August 06, 2004:

I prepared brass contacts of the chassis, for separation of body and chassis wiring easily. I pressed them into a styrene slab by heating with a soldering gun.

I fixed the contacts better with glueing another piece of styrene on top ofthe former assembly.